There is little in this earth that I find more pleasing than
an immense wave of satisfaction. In the morning session I finally had one of
those days that I had been waiting for, a day where I just killed it. I woke up
and did a little meditation over my morning tea focusing all my will into not
settling for anything less than a great day out the waves. The mind is a
powerful thing. I found myself always in the right spot for the waves, and my
arms are now feeling quite strong, technique is a lot better and I had some
great rides. And if I didn’t ride it, I still was in the right spot and paddled spot on, it was just because I overstepped on my standup or some other little
thing which was still satisfying seeing as most of this trip has been spent
trying to get the sense that puts you right where you need to be at the right
moment or trying to condition my arms. The rush of dropping down the front face
of a breaking wave and knowing that even though everything is rushing at you so
fast you are in complete control and now part of the wave…
I stayed out a solid hour longer than anyone else that
morning.
That afternoon between cookie shopping to accompany the morning cappuccinos and a mid-afternoon fresh juice I splurged a little bit and had a beachside massage. It was great, they didn't have to fake a beach breeze or waves crashing in the background!
Another great session that night although no where near the
level of that morning but I was still flying high on the success from that day
overall that it might as well have been.
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