Woke up regretting my decision to go out with the Chileans.
Super tired, but still excited to surf. And nothing was more appealing than the
idea of jumping into the cold ocean to wake up. Mike and Kevin had gone at the usual
early time, and so I headed down with Oliver and Flow the two guys that run the
hostel. What a different experience. When Mike, Kevin, and I go usually it is a
leisurely stroll to the beach in typical carefree American fashion. With Oliver
and Flow (German and Swiss) it more resembles a trot with me having to jog
every ninth and tenth step despite me being a full foot and a half taller than
Flow.
I was super tired in the water and got absolutely abused for
a few hours by the monster swell that was coming through today but had a good
time regardless.
Got back to the house, napped, read the usual.
We ate lunch (toast piled with avocado, tomato and onion and
sprinkled with olive oil) at about 6 before Mike, Kevin and I headed out to
Punta De Lobos, the famous professional surfing spot 8km away. We got there
about an hour before sunset and watched some of the surfers rip for a while.
Punta Del Lobos is obviously on a point but its more of a bluff. To get down to
the water you have to go down a steep grade switchback trail to reach the rocks
that the waves crash on. Then it's just a dangerous swim about 100 feet out to
the lineup of surfers. If you don’t time your dive off the rocks into the water
correctly the waves will pick you up and slam you back into the rocky bluff. It
was crazy to watch these guys surf because they catch a wave and ride it
left along the wave as the right side
where they first caught it crashes into the bluffs, but by riding left you keep
a somewhat constant distance from the rocks while staying on the wave.
As sunset approached we walked to the other side of the
point where there is no surfing and only one couple watching the sunset. We
cracked a brew and hung out and watched the sunset into the pacific. Then we
turned around to head back to the car and were struck by the full moon already
out directly opposed to the sunset.
We hitch hiked back to Pichilemu with a guy who had been
boogey boarding Punta Del Lobos and pulled up to give us a ride blasting the
Offspring out of his hatchback Fiat.
Stopped at the a place that does oven baked empanadas to
hold us over until we had cooked dinner. Best empanada in South America to
date. Outrageously good.
For dinner we cooked up mixed type pasta with a white wine,
garlic, onion, tomato sauce and a mixed green avocado salad.
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